In appearance, it's a cute French bistro - but when the menu arrives you're slap bang in the heart of Japan, with sake and sushi welcoming your taste buds in for a flavour adventure. Welcome to Kiri.
I usually don't read reviews before visiting somewhere myself, but the love for Kiri is palpable through any Google search. Bloggers, journalists and guests alike love the accessible yet considered menu where wagyu beef sits alongside deep-fried fish bones. Luxury meets honesty at Kiri and it's a bloody joy to dine there!
We began with a carafe of Fisherman Jumani Ginjo 14.5% sake. Fresh, light and easy to drink this sake had a smooth, almost water-like texture with only a tingle of alcohol at the end of the sip. It worked well with all our chosen dishes.
We began with ultra thin, completely see-through slices of fluke dressed in a truffle soy sauce - AKA umami itself! The slightly firm texture was intriguing and the heady truffle flavour actually matched the meaty fish very well. Our second dish, a mixed seafood ceviche with yuzu, was a refreshing contrast with mixed cuts of each seafood balanced with tomatoes and celery slices.
Next, a surprising mixed vegetable salad dressed with puffed rice and a slightly sweet house dressing. Vibrant beets and radishes shared spaced with gently steamed broccoli and asparagus giving each mouthful a different flavour. This dish was paired with rock shrimp tempura served with a spicy, Sriracha-style mayonnaise. The sweetness of the shrimp balanced with the spicy mayo was just divine and swapping between the cold, raw veggies and the warm sweet fish was delicious!
The next pairing came in the form of sweet potato croquettes with an edamame wasabi mayonnaise - perhaps a Japanese take on falafel and hummus! I really liked these little croquettes but when eaten with the next dish (red miso glazed aubergine) was DREAMY! I honestly can't think of a better way to describe it; salty then sweet, crunchy then soft, meaty then earthy - all these different flavour and texture combinations coming together made for quite the spoonful!
Our final few dishes focussed solely on seafood. Classic California rolls were updated with a topping of grilled eel, whose flavour I loved but texture I was not a fan of. Lemon sole 'kara-age' was a really intriguing dish which arrived on a deep-fried fish spine. We were munching on the little balls of lemony fish when our server noted: "you can eat the bones too!". Similar to pork crackling but even saltier, this dish was definitely one for the brave. We finally enjoyed a really special plate of fatty tuna with spring onion maki. Soft, sweet and meaty all at the same time, these gorgeous little rolls were such a treat and even if you order nothing else, you really need to try these!
If you work near Mayfair and are looking for a special spot to kick back, relax and enjoy truly the finest Japanese food in a relaxed way then make Kiri your go-to spot.
Thank you, Kiri, for arranging this review. All opinions are my own.
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